Babe, wake up! Fashion’s most exciting season is here! We are closing in on New York Fashion Week for Autumn / Winter 2024, and there’s quite a lineup. This year, the schedule is packed with all styles of rising talent. Here are a few of our picks for great shows to watch:
Ulla Johnson has given us the razzle-dazzle in previous collections with her elegant prints and intricate dressmaking ability, some of which we’ve seen snippets of for the upcoming season. Editorials of the collection have hinted at warm neutrals with rust and mustard, loose knitwear, and some unique-designed leather accessories. Ulla Johnson brings a distinct warmth to each new collection, and an almost-romance that just keeps getting better and better each time we see it. The design approach to this fall is following a more geometric path than the previous collection, which makes for an exciting watch this Fashion Week.
Elena Velez has been making waves in fashion for a few years now - both her metalworking styles and rhetorical approach to leading a fashion brand have caught the attention of industry-folk and enthusiasts alike. In her recent interview with DAZED, she speaks candidly and critically about the financial glass ceiling in fashion, and not having any sort of private wealth funding the work. This approach alone is incredibly refreshing in the industry and worth our attention - her designs have feminine edge, uniqueness in metallics and materials, and have a serious-but-not-serious feel. Elena Velez takes a very HUMAN approach to fashion, in an era of fashion all but consumed by AI advancement and consumer-fueled collaboration. In A/W 2024, we can expect to see an expert balance between the harsh and the delicate. This is a keen strength that Velez has shown in previous collections, and we are excited to see what she’s got in store!
Diotima, a fashion brand representing both New York and Jamaica, is a brand to watch for intricacy and lightness. Their heralded crochet work and ethos of sustainability are nothing short of, well, fierce. The fashion calendar has always been getting faster and faster, but this brand doesn’t feel any pressure. Diotima takes craftsmanship and intention seriously, and views sustainability as a community approach rather than materiality. They’ve released some stunning tailored trousers and blazers earlier in spring, and we think their versatility is the mark of a great emerging brand.
LaQuan Smith gained recognition for his unique and bold approach to silhouette, often with dynamic cutouts and complex textures. On the cutting edge of contemporary, his work has been worn by the likes of Indya Moore, Zendaya, and Rihanna in recent editorials. A LaQuan Smith runway show is a glamorous party that we don’t want to be late to, and there’s sure to be a showstopper. Maybe even a showstopper after the showstopper.
Some stunning tailoring is definitely in the mix for A/W 24 Gabriela Hearst, making her showing a definite must-watch. Detailed leatherwork, soft white wools, bold reds and yellows, and a sense of calm sophistication across the entire body of work that speaks well for the crisp fall season. Even after handling creative direction at Chloe for three years, her self-named label shows no sign of being on the back burner. Her well-informed perspective and thoughtful design sense shine through on the runway, which we look forward to seeing in a few short weeks.
What shows are you looking forward to this New York Fashion Week? Holler at us on Instagram @thisstylefiles to follow along with our runway coverage and join the conversation.
Image by VOGUE, LaQuan Smith A/W 2024.