Photo by Setchu.
Exciting news has entered the fashion world, and the LVMH Winner has been announced!
Setchu by Satoshi Kuwata, has secured the 2023 LVMH Prize.
The brand name “SETCHU''comes from a Japanese word “Wayo Setchu” written 和洋折衷. “Wayo” refers to Japan and the West, and “Setchu” means compromise - the brand is indicative of balancing Japanese and Western influences together, and “compromise” between the two cultures. Located in Milan, Italy, SETCHU is on track to give the LVMH group some fresh perspective on effective design and finding true balance. SETCHU does just that, and finds harmony between approachable garment styles and more avant-garde detailing. Kuwata’s most recent collection explored standout fabrics with leather and heavy knits combined with an electric blue palette statement. SETCHU’s aesthetic is jovial, and definitely emphasized as much play in fashion as succinct design.
SETCHU beautifully explores Japanese silhouette techniques with complex folding, reminiscent of Miyake’s early collections inspired by Paris and New York in the 1970’s. SETCHU draws much from postmodern Western fashion, and expands upon the more set seam structure of European garments.
Brand director Satoshi Kuwata has had roles in some pretty severe brands over the years, including Givenchy, Jil Sander, Celine, and even a stint at Yeezy. The securing of the LVMH prize will allow SETCHU to expand into a namesake brand all on its own, and give Kuwata some more credit to his creation. We are excited to see where the SETCHU brand goes!
Check out SETCHU here:
Kuwata wasn’t the only one walking away from the prize with success, as there were also two winners of the Karl Lagerfeld prize, effectively placing as runners-up. Let’s talk about ‘em!
Magliano, by Luca Magliano
Magliano was born out of Italian undercurrents, founder Luca Magliano bases his brand in Bologna, Italy and has a more daring aesthetic. Magliano pairs sensitive details with an overall darker tone - fierce and serious, but oozing charisma. Equally provocative and romantic, Magliano’s most recent collection of menswear combined soft pinks, loose silhouettes, and elaborate suiting details - both rough around the edges, and incredibly polished. It seems like the jury had a penchant for designers with a sense of balance, and Magliano is certainly one to watch.
Bettter, by Julie Pelipas
Bettter is a brand that’s been on our radar for awhile - the prize is well deserved! Much of the brand’s foundation is upcycling, and this win brings Pelipa’s design rhetoric to a larger scope of attention. She has plans to improve the overall scalability of her brand which, as we know, one of the biggest caveats to responsible sourcing in fashion is working on a larger scale. Pelipas’ systematic approach to fashion presents a fascinating new method to utilizing secondhand material, completely reimagining a sophisticated high-fashion style from something preexisting.
Congratulations to the winning designers this year! It is always exciting to have fresh perspectives be given the opportunity to shine, and we can’t wait to see what SETCHU, Mangiano, and Bettter do next.
What are some of our favorite looks from the winning designers? Join the conversation with us on Instagram @thisstylefiles, where we discuss emerging designers, new collections, and all things fashion.